The Great Escape 2.0 – Scotland 2023

Day: 0, Prologue, sometime in 2022

Back in November 2022 I decided to have another bash at The Great Escape (see previous blog for 2022 escapade), hopefully this time without the catastrophically terminal tent failure !!! For those amongst us with a short memory (me included….)  I had to abandon ship, as one of the tent air beams split, which meant that the  tent was sagging dangerously against the wind. So I had to abandon camp on the Isle of Mull, before I did any more damage. First time EVER I’ve abandoned in all my years of camping. Anyway, we managed to rectify all that in the form of a completely brand new tent provided under warranty by the dealer/ manufacturer – thank you ! Also, I’ve now sorted out how I could deal with any similar unexpected situation in the future, with extra guy ropes and  a method of collapsing the  fully erect tent on a temporary basis, until any storm passes. All figured out during my trip to West Wales in April – you live and learn…… . See the West Wales blog post.

Day : 1, Date: 02 May 2023, Tebay and beyond

 Day: 2, Date: 03 May 2023, Crinan Canal diversion

 A few days before I left home on this trip, I serendipitously came across a TV programme about the Crinan Canal, which runs between Crinan and Ardrishaig in Argyle and Bute. Built to provide a navigable  route between the Clyde and the Inner Hebrides, it cuts out a long diversion around the Kintyre Peninsular, in particular the  exposed Mull of Kintyre.  In its heyday, it provided a short cut for commercial sailing and fishing vessels (and later passenger steamers) between the industrial region around Glasgow and the West Highland villages and islands.  Now only “tourist traffic”………

Before then, my route took me via the famous Rest And Be Thankful on the A83 – thankfully open….. The road is still in what seems like a permanent state of on-going repair, as the rockface keeps sliding down and blocking this very important link road between Tarbert and Inverary. Since last I was there, an awful lot of concrete has been poured into walling, etc. Looks like it’ll be a constant battle with Mother nature though…… One way convoy system with traffic lights working this time. Still worth it for the view at the top……bit hazy, but the magnificent Glen Croe.

Back to the Canal. Knowing that I had only a couple of hours or so to explore (controlled by my own imposed “curfew” time for arriving at the campsite) I decided to concentrate on the  Cairnbaan Locks, before pootling up to Crinlan village itself for a spot of lunch.

Crinan itself has quite a busy ship building/maintenance yard, a very nice looking “posh” hotel (funnily enough called the Crinan Hotel with linen and silverware all set out beautifully in the dining room), a sea lock (enabling craft to go in/out the canal at any sea tide state) and a lock-side café.

Her husband was off looking for a reliable weather forecast for the next day – apparently was going to be rubbish, so they decided to stay moored up in the sea lock pound overnight. Turned out it was her birthday, so I think there was going to be a rather pleasant meal in the Hotel – much jealousy on my part – baked beans on toast for me tonight !

 

So off up the coast road to Oban and pitch no 54  with my “small” 3 man tent, ready for a quick getaway. On the way, there was a fuel and food refuelling stop at Oban Tesco’s, complete with  it starting to rain ! Finding the Tesco was, for me, a small triumph, because last year I’d tried every direction of approach and had failed miserably. “ If at first……..”

Tent up in the rain (my favourite) and sort out the Lusted storage box system for the first time with this small tent. Worked perfectly !

So looking forward to the first ferry tomorrow. However…………again !

Day: 3, Date: 04 May 2023, Another diversion

More diversions………

Originally, my plan was:

• Get the direct ferry from Oban to Craignure on Mull (the most direct route, most popular route)
• Spend a few days on Mull
• Another short crossing from Fishnish to Lochaline
• Drive north the “pretty” way along the Loch side
• Use the Corran Ferry to cut across Loch Linhe
• Drive back south to Oban – ready for the 5 hour ferry journey to Barra/Castlebay next day.

However, it didn’t go to plan ! Overnight, something had gone wrong with the vehicle ramp equipment at Craignure, so a diversion was necessary, as they couldn’t unload vehicles.

Just to help things on, the Corran Ferry wasn’t currently working either – both the main ferry and the reserve ferry had broken down ! I’d already worked out another route (an extra 42 miles via minor one track roads and an involuntary diversion through Fort William) which I was going to do as I LEFT Mull, not as I ENTERED it). So a reverse of the intended drive was required to get back to Oban.

With the issues at Craignure, this minor road was now extra, extra busy as everyone headed for the alternative ferry crossing at Lochaline – such fun ! I spent a very frustrated time  behind a Co-Op food lorry for miles and miles, with nowhere to overtake !

One bonus was that the food kiosk was open early at the Lochaline ferry terminal, doing a roaring trade in sandwiches, pies and coffee – so somebody was happy !

Another bonus was that after a rubbish wet/windy night (as forecast), the weather improved dramatically  on the “diversion”, so by the time I got to Lochaline, the sun was out ! YES !

Eventually, got to the Tobermory Campsite, just outside the town.  Turned out to be much more sheltered than the site I used in 2022, although one negative was that I had to lug all the stuff from the car park across the grass to my choses spot near a stream. Ho hum. Worth it for a three day stop though.

After that unplanned “adventure” it was an early night. To prepare for the boat trip to Staffa tomorrow.

Day:4, Date: 05 May 2023, Staffa and Lunga

Next morning dawned dull, grey and generally overcast, with a keen wind. Not very promising for my sea trip to Staffa and Lunga, courtesy of Staffa Tours, starting in Tob (sorry, what the locals call Tobermory), using their boat ANGUS.

Our first stop was the island of Lunga, famed for birdlife. One of the Treshnish Isles group of islands. The only problem is that there is NO proper landing stage and a rock scramble is required, a bit difficult if the tide/sea was wrong ! To overcome this a “contraption” is deployed to provide a bridge between boat and the rocks. How it got past H + S regs I have no idea ! Not helped by the wind/swell making life a bit awkward.  It’s anchored just off the beach and is then collected by whatever boat comes along, then “rammed” onto the rocks as far up as possible.

Further along the path came the colony of shags and kittiwakes – thousands of them !!!!! What a sight and what a noise……

After a couple of hours wandering (and a sandwich lunch) it was back to the boat and off to  Staffa – renowned for Fingals Cave, Mendelssohn’s The Hebrides Overture and all that, as well as fantastic rock structures.  Still a bit rough – sea wise – but at least there was a sensible landing jetty this time ! A nifty bit of seamanship was required as there was still quite a swell, but I guess the captain had done the trip a few odd times before….. PS: Look at around 2:40 on the video to see how  rough it was……great fun !!!! https://youtu.be/fAA-BXAiteY?si=BF7L7WPET2UkwxOT

Quite impossible to describe the various rock formations, so pictures and video will have to do instead. There was a roped path that allowed you to get further into the cave itself, very slippery due to the weather, sea spray, etc.

After we all clambered back on the boat, the captain then manoeuvred into the mouth of the cave, as much as he could, as the sea was running hard again, the wind having returned.  Fantastic seamanship in the circumstances.

Another one that “got away” last year…..  Following the stormy day yesterday, today started out sunny and bright, but still breezy. All through the day, the cloud formations were pretty impressive – see pix.

There is so much written about Iona, it’s history, etc. I’m not going to bore you with all that – that what Google is for !  All I can suggest is what’s on Wikipedia (or your other favourite source of information), together with Ben Fogle’s excellent TV series called Scotland’s Sacred Islands, Series 1, Programme 1 (Inner Hebrides). At about 39 minutes in, he arrives in Iona. Obviously he got a lot more access than the “normal” day visitor, but certainly worth a look.

As is very well known, Iona is a small island in the Inner Hebrides, off the Ross of Mull on the western coast of Scotland.  Although it’s a major tourist destination (Iona Abbey, St Columba, the beaches, etc) it’s also a place for spiritual retreats.

Not to be confused with the local island community, the Iona Community is based within Iona Abbey. It runs residential courses on the island where one can live together in Christian fellowship with people of every background from all over the world.

Indeed, as I came across on the ferry on the short trip from the Fionnphort Ferry Terminal (after a 56 mile, 90 minute drive from Tob), there was a big queue of people about to leave the island, presumably having stayed there for a period of time.

I fall very much into the tourist category……..

So my plan was to visit the Abbey and then walk up to the Northern end of the island, where reputedly there were some stunning beaches – correct !

I followed the rest of the sheep (sorry, fellow travellers off the ferry…) up the road past the shop (there’s only 120 full time residents ), the other main street and the primary school, going past the ruins of the Iona nunnery (apparently, one of the best preserved in the UK).

After passing the small hotel, the Abbey itself came into view. Whatever your religious views, you cannot but admire the choice of site chosen for the Abbey, with stunning views across the water back to Mull “mainland”. It’s a magnificent building, only recently restored, with funding from Historic Scotland from 1980 to 2000.  I have since found this article on the John Renshaw (Architects) website, which gives some interesting background to the restoration work done.

One unusual thing I noticed is that the window glass over the alter is plain, no figures, no nothing. Lots of stained glass windows in the side chapels though. Strange. I expect there is a story somewhere……

A side-point: John Smith, the former leader of the UK labour party is buried in the graveyard adjacent to the Abbey, in the sacred burial ground of Reilig Odhráin, where many early Scottish and Norse kings are said to be buried.

Then on to the beaches on North End. Absolutely stunning, no other words will do.

Eventually, (reluctantly) back to the ferry.

Iona in a few words ? Beautiful, placid, peaceful.  Must be a bugger in winter though !

For my return drive to Tob, I went the “pretty” way, all along the west coast of Mull. The road incorporates quite a bit of the route used by RALLY MULL, so proved to be a bit exciting ! The majority of roads on Mull are single track with passing places – even some of the so called “main”  roads, so the B roads are something else….. A few good sights along the way, including Eas Fors waterfall and the magnificent Calgary Beach (went there last year as well). A bit of a tiring drive but well worth it.

So that’s my few days on Mull/Iona finished. Back to Oban tomorrow (assuming the ferry terminal at Craignure in working again) , then the long ferry trip to Barra/Castlebay the day after.

Day: 6, Date: 07 May 2023, Back to Oban

Following a bit of frantic phoning and booking number change around , the EVER HELPFUL (YES REALLY – best customer services I’ve ever come across on the phone, nothing is too much trouble !!!!!) CALMAC customer services got me on to the lunchtime ferry from the Isle of Mull back to Oban – indeed, when I got to Craignure there was even room on the earlier ferry, so all good….

Unbelievably, another brilliant day – sun, a breeze and more spectacular cloud formations. After the last couple of days, I was knackered, so quite happy to have a leisurely morning tent pack up before the troll down to the ferry.

On the way across we passed the Oban/Castlebay (MV Isle of Lewis) scheduled lunchtime service (there was only one sailing that day…) coming out of Oban– I’ll be on that tomorrow. !

So back to the Camping & Caravan Club site in Oban overnight. A quick DIY meal and early to bed.  The weather forecast for next day (Monday)  was pretty dire, with 40mph wind and accompanying rain, so a bit worried that the ferry to Barra might not run. Luckily, the CCC site is in an old walled garden, so well sheltered.

Big/long trip tomorrow……

Day: 7, Date: 08 May 2023, Onward to Barra

Overnight it also p***d down, but I didn’t hear a thing – THINK:  turns hearing aid off when sleeping……

Thankfully, the weather improved dramatically through the morning, so the ferry  (MV Isle of Lewis) to Barra/Castlebay at lunchtime was running OK, indeed it left 15 minutes early. To me, “Barra’s appeal lies in its breathtaking natural surroundings and well preserved Hebridean history and heritage” (quote,unquote). Hopefully the weather will improve so that I can take all that in…….. It’s a bit of a slog, the journey taking 4 ½ to 5 hrs, so it’s snooze time and eating time and “looking out the window at dolphins” time. The aircraft style seats were very comfy.

 Also, there was a spot of unscheduled “entertainment” , in the form of a novel way of cleaning ship windows.  See pic below. So what you need is a washing up brush with a small tube feed for the detergent, then a hose connection for the rinsing water. All attached to a very long pole so you can  manipulate it from the deck above, up and down the window. Very clever, a proper engineering solution…..

We arrived just on 6 o’clock into Castlebay terminal, complete with island castle, Kisimul Castle. The island of Barra (at the bottom of the Outer Hebrides chain of islands) is not very large, only 18km long and 10km wide, at the most. There is one single-track road, the A888, which circles the island. At the village of Northbay is the spur road that goes north to the famous beach airport and the Ardmhor ferry terminal, which connects Barra to the isles of Eriskay and South Uist. So, out of the ferry terminal, I turned left/west, as I wanted to spot the campsite I’d chosen for 2022, but hadn’t gone to…… Along the way, I came across the Isle of Barra Beach Hotel, which looks rather nice – another time perhaps ????  Great location and fantastic views. Naturally, my selected campsite was at the furthest place away from any form of civilisation (see map above), right on the most northerly peninsular on the island at CROFT NUMBER 2 –  literally at the end of the road…..

Day: 8, Date: 09 May 2023, Barrabados

Well, somebody must’ve been listening, as Tuesday dawned with mega-sunshine and a bit of a breeze. Brooding clouds though….

During the night, my new friend’s VW campervan somehow tripped the site electrics, but the campsite owner Angus (being a very “hands on” proprietor) showed us how/where to reset things.  I have to say that I’ve seen better/more tidy wiring, but I guess it does the job….. Rob fixed his campervan issue, has happened before, I understand.

Anyway….. it’s time to explore. So today my target was Vatersay (south of Castlebay) and it’s allegedly fabulous beaches and walks.

The island of Vatersay is the southernmost and westernmost inhabited island in the Outer Hebrides, and the settlement of Caolas (on the north coast of the island) is the westernmost permanently inhabited place in Scotland. The main village, also called Vatersay, is in the south of the island.

Barra has a nickname of “Barrabados”, mainly due its “unspoiled views, white shoreline, and the same glistening water found at beaches in the Caribbean”. Recently, American firm Big 7 Travel released a list of top world-wide 50 places to stay, voting the location of the nearby Isle of Barra Beach Hotel (see yesterday’s blog) as having a “must-see” beach for travellers. They wrote: “Save on the plane ticket to the Caribbean islands and find sugary white sand beaches and turquoise waters in Scotland.”

So although not quite the same beach location as the hotel (but very close), I was hoping that the hype was well founded…

On the way to Vatersay proper, I stopped at the rather impressive war memorial, which overlooks the main bay at Castlebay. Unfortunately Heaval/Heabhal (the highest summit on the island at 383m) was a bit cloud shrouded, but still provided a dramatic backdrop to the town.

After crossing the short causeway from the main island (one of many in the Outer Hebrides, as I was to find out later….) you are confronted by a wealth of beach “riches”. The East beach (Traigh a Bhaigh in Scottish Gaelic) is away from the direct influence of the Atlantic Ocean, whereas the West Beach (Traigh Shiar ) gets whatever weather is thrown at it. These are the two main beaches, but there are others. More to explore next time…..

Well, all I can say is that “stunning” is a word that is somewhat inadequate to describe East Beach. Don’t just take my word for it – look at the “Ultimate Vatersay Beach and Island Guide” for confirmation……. Wow ! It’s all white fine sand at the northern end of the beach but gets a bit rockier at the southern end, complete with seaweed.

I decided to walk south for a while, then across the dunes towards Vatersay Village itself.  After that, cut across the isthmus to the West Beach, walk north along it, then stop for a bite to eat at the Vatersay Community Hall Café for lunch. My plan worked !

“Cunningly” (!) , I’d parked in the Community Hall car park, post-prandial ready (after  sitting outside in the sun scoffing a delicious cheese and ham toastie and salad) for the afternoon’s activities. The two ladies running the café were probably not expecting to be so busy on a Tuesday, but hey, the sun was shining ! Glorious weather…..

Just outside the Hall is a post marking the southernmost starting point for the Hebridean Way, a walking route that takes in 156 miles of walking/cycling, finishing at the Butt of Lewis on the most northerly of the island chain. Not today…….

Back in the car, it was to Castlebay itself and a look round the town, plus a bit of a walk around the eastern side of the bay.  This gives you another view of  Kisimul Castle and the  “main” street of the town. The eagle eyed/older members of my audience might spot that this is Pier Road, as featured in the original 1949 version of the Whisky Galore ! film (book by Crompton Mackenzie), which was mainly filmed on the island, with Barra posing as the island of Todday.

Travelling on, I stopped at the campsite at Borve (where I had planned to stop last year) to have quick look for the future. Looks OK, but less suited for tents as it’s very exposed – but just look at the views !

After that, I went plane spotting….. On the road back to camp is Barra Airport.  The airport is unique, believed to be the only one in the world where scheduled flights  (Loganair, twice daily to Glasgow, using twin engine turboprop aircraft) use a tidal beach ( Traigh Mhor, a two-mile cockleshell strand ) as the runway.

Not often you see a sign that tells you to keep off the beach like this one !

There must’ve been a flight due or departing, as the observation carpark was full of other plane spotters. Lo and behold, a flight was due out.

So, last day on Barra tomorrow – what else can we squeeze in ?

Day: 9, Date: 10 May 2023, Last day in paradise

Well, I knew it wouldn’t last….Overnight it was mega-stormy, windy and shedloads of rain. Pleased to report that my now well-developed extra guy rope configuration worked 100 %.  It must’ve been a bit rough as it woke me up a couple of times, even with my hearing aids out ….

The morning started dull and foggy, but cheered up pretty quickly..

One of the other joys of Barra (apart from the glorious beaches) is finding all sorts of good stuff down some of the single track side roads. Like this one led me to the Tangasdale Trail and a different kind of coastline, much more rugged but still spectacular – in my eyes anyway. Oh and another great beach as well……Halaman Bay

 Or like this little coastal village called Cleat, in the middle of nowhere. I’m taking the pic from the bus turnaround bay. The bus drivers must have nerves of steel, as most of the road is MUCH, MUCH narrower that this bit and also undulated like mad.

I also took in the Barra Heritage and Cultural Centre, which was full of the island’s history, the previous fishing industry and lots of stuff about emigration of the population to North America, mainly Canada.

So after a bit more of a run around ( including sussing the next northwards bound ferry terminal at Aird Mhor) it was back to camp, to start the pack up.

Day: 10, Date: 11 May 2023, Farewell to Barra

Naturally, as soon as we all set off for the 11 o’clock ferry at Aird Mohr, the sun came out. Just before I left the campsite, I had a quick walk down to the beach by the campsite – not bad eh?

Boarding the ferry all seemed a bit casual, as despite me having 400 pages of tickets, etc, the guy guiding us onto the ferry only had a bit of scratty cardboard with registration numbers on it ! Ho hum….

My new VW friends had two pedigree greyhounds, one of which wasn’t very good with sea travel, as you can see. Comforting cuddles had to be provided……. They were  staying at the Kilbride campsite (a bit windy and open for my taste) whereas I was travelling further north.

South Uist is the second-largest island of the Outer Hebrides. It’s certainly different to Barra, with the west being machair (fertile low-lying coastal plain) with a continuous sandy beach, whilst the east coast is mountainous. The main road obviously keeps to the east side, so you get the impression (when travelling) that the whole island is flat – it isn’t !

Lochboisdale also has self service card payment only petrol pumps. Such devices are a regular feature of the islands and also northern Scotland in general.  On advice from someone who should know, you never go past a filling station on the islands, just in case supplies are not available elsewhere – it all comes across on the ferries, which can sometimes be “unreliable”…… The one in the pic below, for instance, had no fuel of any sort. I wonder if they’d used the all the diesel up frying the fish ???????

My next destination was the Kildonan Museum and Cultural Centre. The museum has a collection of items from and about South Uist collected by a local Parish Priest, Father John Morrison, during the 1950s and 1960s. It also sets out the background to an island that is incredibly rich in archeological remains dating from the bronze age to the Viking era. Some of the exhibits are set out thematically: tools from a blacksmith’s shop for example. Others are contained within the rooms of a recreated croft house.

Next “tourist” stop was Our Lady of the Isles. This is a sculpture of the Madonna and child,  situated on the western slopes of Ruabhal, a hill near the northern end of South Uist. It’s just off the main road with a paved track to a small car park just below the statue. Commissioned by a local parish priest in resistance to 1950’s plans to build a large missile testing range nearby. Looking at the view today, it seems the protests were successful, though there are, apparently, still some smaller firing ranges on the coastal flatland to the north. Notice the military radar set in my pic ??????

Day: 11, Date: 12 May 2023, N Uist “Rest day” 1

 Woke up to a heavy overnight dew but day cleared up pretty quickly to a brilliant blue sky – washing time !!!!

 

Day: 12, Date: 13 May 2023, N Uist “Rest day” 2

Well the weather forecast was spot on. The wind had changed round 180 degrees to a South Westerly, buffeting the tent a bit, so another change to the windbreak(s) and repositioning of the car. Indeed, it woke me up at 5 in the morning, so I went for a pee then back to bed until 8. Bit of a slow start to the morning but then drive to the island of Grimsay. It has a circular main road loop from the main road and back, which makes it easy to “do”. The main attraction is the fishing port at Kallin (Ceallan in Gaelic), still very active by the looks of things. Unfortunately the place was a bit closed down on a Saturday, so the seafood shop/café was closed – no fresh fish for my supper…..

On the way back, I inadvertently got involved in a road running race.… I’d spotted a police presence at the first turn off from the main road and did wonder what was going on.  Coming off the island later, I came across the start of what turns out to be an annual road running event around the island, complete with bagpipers, banners, local dignitaries, etc. Apparently the 20^th anniversary of the Grimsay Road Race. The police presence at the main road junctions was just to make sure the runners kept safe for the short distance on the main road between the two turn offs. Not a great day for running though…….

Back at camp, a further adjustment of guy ropes, windbreaks, etc was necessary, as the forecast looked pretty grim . Perhaps my choice of tent pitch was not going to be the best camping decision I’d ever made….. It had been pretty stormy the last night as well, as you can see with all the seaweed blown onto the camp perimeter fence.

After these few relatively quiet travelling days, it was another ferry tomorrow, to Harris and Lewis. Bit worried about what would happen overnight, the forecast did not look good…..

Day: 13, Date: 14 May 2023, Northwards to Harris and Lewis

Rodel is a village on the south-eastern coast of Harris.  It was historically the capital of Harris and its main port, before Tarbert took the title. Apart from the old port there is the 16th century St Clement’s Church, built by the chief Macleod of Dunvegan and Harris ( more of him later in my journey…..) and is home to his intricately carved tomb. There’s not much left of the actual port now, but I can see why it was selected, being sheltered and all that.

Quite an experience and fantastic scenery – thank goodness there was not a lot of traffic !!!!

My next campsite is Eilean Fraoich Campsite at Shawbost on the north western coast of the Isle of Lewis. The Isle of Lewis (or simply Lewis) is really the northern part of Lewis and Harris, the largest island of the Western Isles/Outer Hebrides.  The two parts are frequently referred to as if they were separate islands, but they aren’t.

Day: 14, Date: 15 May 2023, To the end of the world

Port of Ness harbour is still very much there (tide was out on my visit), but the large fishing industry has gone, only a few boats now using the harbour. Nice looking beach as well.

There is a very informative Memorial totem pole at one of the viewpoints, providing details of all those fishermen lost at sea over the years. I was reading it all at the same time as a bunch of visitors from Sweden. I had to do my English bit and explain the term “press ganged” to them written on one of the memorial faces. My good turn for the day……

 On to the lighthouse (all 121 ft of it), one of David and Thomas Stevenson’s finest constructions. Unfortunately, couldn’t go in as it’s been converted to remote control, so no keeper on duty today. The old keeper’s cottages have been converted to holiday lets!

Nearby was the totem for the northern end of the Hebridean Way. So I’ve been from one end to the other, albeit by car, not walking.

Apparently, the Butt of Lewis is mentioned in the Guinness Book of Records as the windiest place in the UK. It was certainly quite windy, as you can see in the video. There’s rocks and cliffs up to 80 feet high. Spectacular …..

On my way into the settlement ( it’s really one long linear village) around the Butt, I spotted this structure. First of all it didn’t make sense, then the penny dropped. It’s a bus shelter ! So you can choose the correct quadrant depending on the wind direction – brilliant ! I came across some others that even had windows in as well.

After a short walk from the main road car park, you come across a pair of renovated thatched buildings used in past times to process barley grain into meal.  The mill and kiln were apparently still in use right up to the 1930’s.

The mill was water powered, the mill paddles powered from a stream fed by the nearby Loch Roinavat. The two building serve two different purposes. The Kiln was a drying room with a raised stone floor and fire pit underneath to prepare the corn for milling.

Thatched building paid a big part at my next stop, the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village at Carloway. This is a complete coastal crofting village situated in a secluded bay.  It was only finally abandoned in the 1970’s, but has been gradually restored, complete with  one of the cottages very much how it was until then.  There’s even an old guy sitting by the peat fire to tell visitors how it was. You can even stay there in self catering accommodation. Very much a “modern” tourist attraction/museum complete with nice café, interesting sit down audio/visual presentation and all the other trappings required by us inquisitive folk.  Well worth a visit, even if it just reminds you of how people on these remote islands were living until really relatively recently.

This is sort of the Stonehenge of Lewis, but apparently these Neolithic  stones predate that famous monument, and were an important place for ritual activity for at least 2,000 years, being an cross-shaped setting of stones erected 5,000 years ago. Nobody seems to know why the standing stones at Calanais were erected, but the best guess is that it was a kind of astronomical observatory.

Day: 15, Date: 16 May 2023, Bosta Beach and Uig

Halfway through my trip already………..Rain overnight, but all cleared up by eight o’clock. Another fine day promised – and it was !

One of my “target list” places was an island called Great Bernera and specifically Bosta Beach (Bostadh in Gaelic), which I’d been told/seen on the internet was pretty awesomely beautiful. So had to go. I’d also been told about a rather splendid community café at Gallan Head – sounded a good place for lunch.

Like a lot of the slightly offshore islands, getting a bridge to Great Bernera from the mainland was always an issue, until the first bridge (apparently the first pre-stressed, post-tensioned concrete example in Europe) was built in 1953.  After a structural survey was done in 2020, it was decided that a new bridge was required, a single span “delta” bridge.  I’m only bashing this bridge bit cos it was fabricated/installed by the Mabey Bridge company, just down the road from where I live in the Forest of Dean….

So here it is. It was built/assembled on the mainland side then pushed across the gap onto abutments on the island side.  All a bit like a giant Meccano set – engineers LOVE things like this ! As you can see, the old bridge has become a sort of picnic area – waste not want not…..

Turned out to be another pretty excellent day, with just a little a bit of a breeze.

Bosta Beach did not disappoint. Beautiful. I think I’m beginning to become addicted to the fantastic coastal scenery of the Outer Hebrides…….

Bosta Beach is at the end of a valley in which a “hidden” iron age village was discovered, uncovered in a storm that washed away may of the sand dunes. One round house from around 600AD has had its roof replaced and has been restored. The idea was to recreate how they lived and what their priorities were in those days.

A pretty smart place to have a village – look at the view…..Unfortunately, I got my timing wrong as the house wouldn’t be open until the afternoon – next time.

One consolation was the arrival of several rather nice Jaguars. Part of an Anglo/American crowd who were on some form of non-competitive tour – Islands and Highlands ?  A rather gorgeous E type and a couple of XK series machines – drool, drool……..

Off the island now  and on my way to the Edge Café at Gallan Head for lunch.  Travelling on the B8011 was impressively OK. I was expecting a  bit of a narrow road with passing spaces.  I was to find out why it was relatively good as I got nearer to Gallan Head….

After going through a small village called Aird Uig the road seemed to go through what looked like a derelict army campsite, but I kept following the Café signs.  Unfortunately …. the cafe was full ! A bit of a different type of place, with just one big long communal table  (so limited numbers) and no fixed menu. The whole place looked a bit “hippie” style, with a mix of different furniture styles, a huge collection of tea cups, board games, tourist info about the area together with a little gallery and craft shop, selling works by local artists. Looks like the sort of place you go for lunch and don’t leave until late PM……. nice ! Next time, I shall have to be a bit earlier for lunch. Ho hum.

Turns out that the derelict buildings were an RAF/NATO radar station (RAF Aird Uig), until 2010, not army ! Certainly a place to get away from it all……

So back in the trusty steed.  It was time for one of my “ I wonder where this road goes” turn offs ( having grabbed some lunch supplies at the Uig Community Shop in Timsgarry – really in the middle of nowhere ) to  an “end of the road” place called Crowlista. Guess what ?  It led me to a place where I could overlook an other (yes another…) called Uig Sands/Beach – just keeps giving……..  Such beautiful scenery wherever you look. Not a bad view for lunch.

On the way to Aird Uig, I’d spotted a sign for a “Tourist Scenic Circular Route” going through small villages called Cliff, Valtos , Kneep, Reef and Uigen. Intriuging… Certainly an interesting drive (not many places to stop and take pic’s), which ended up on a beautiful beach/campsite, then back up the hill again to the “main” road.

So altogether a brilliant day with quite a lot of driving – but worth it. Back to camp now as tomorrow it’s off to Stornoway and the ferry back to the mainland.

And my views on the Outer Hebrides ?  A fantastic place that needs more exploration. I knew that these few days would just be a bit of a sample. I’m not quite sure that a big 4 man tent in May is the best – perhaps a campervan next time ……..

Tomorrow I plan to have a look around the Stornoway area. There’s only two sailings that  day to Ullapool ( at 0700 and 1400 hrs). You can bet I won’t make the first one …..

Day: 16, Date: 17 May 2023, Clachtoll bound

Weather check ? Cloudy but dry.

Ferry across to the mainland from Stornoway was at 2 pm, so I had time to have a look around before joining the queue at the terminal. Inevitably there was a stop at Tesco’s to top up for food, then off to a village called Holm, where there’s a memorial to a vessel called the Iolaire.

After the first world war, a vessel called the Iolaire foundered on rocks at the entrance to Stornoway Harbour in the early hours of 1^st January 1919. The vessel was carrying hundreds of  Royal Navy Reserve men. Tragically, only 99 of 280 men survived. A memorial was built on the headland overlooking the harbour entrance.

After a run up to the end of the Eye Peninsula and a bit of calendar shopping in town, it was off to the port for my last ferry of the trip. The Loch Seaforth was a bit late arriving but once away it was a smooth 2 ½ hour trip, despite the wind getting up a bit en route.

My destination for the night was the Clachtoll Beach Campsite. I’ve been there before and had reserved the same pitch as I had in 2020.   They have a sort of “curfew” time before they shut the main gate, so it was pedal to the metal. Just as we landed in Ullapool it started to rain !

Somewhere with the last few miles of the single track road to the campsite, I had to take to the very edge of the tarmac when somebody coming in the opposite direction decided to hog the complete road. Instant NSF puncture !  Annoying, as it was virtually a brand new tyre. I couldn’t stop, so did the last bit to the campsite with a complete flat tyre – great !

After a bit of confusion ref the pitch numbers (I’m convinced they’ve changed them in the last few years…..) the small tent went up in what was now a howling gale….

 On the next pitch the couple were struggling in the gusty wind with a gazebo type thing. A couple of us provided a bit of help. It looked brand new, so I guess it had not been put up before. In the prevailing wind I wouldn’t’ve bothered……

Naturally, before 6pm, the rain had stopped, wind continued into the night. Tomorrow’s first task ? Find a new tyre…..

Day: 17, Date: 18 May 2023, Clachtoll tyre day

We seem to have survived the night, still breezy this am, but the sun is out and it’s not raining. – yeah !

After breakfast the first task was to swap out the tyres. Not so easy when the ground is a bit squidgy but we found enough flat wood on which to site the jack – surprising what these camping guys have knocking around in their stores…….

VERY HELPFUL guys who run the camp (Tom and Andy) made a few calls for me to locate the correct size. The problem is that these “sporty” cars are fitted with low profile black round objects (205 -14 R70) which are not normally kept locally in the wilds of NW Scotland.

Found one in Dingwall which is not exactly a short trip. Thank you guys, anyway. We’ll leave that one in reserve for now.

However, today is dustbin day…… On one of my trips back and forth to the camp office, the gang of refuse operatives (having a quiet cuppa and a biscuit with the management) also suggested a local garage in Lochinver (David MacAskill Garage  ) might be of assistance.  I got the message that the garage was not unused to helping out stupid Sassenachs with car issues….. I think it helped that I had on my orange florescent railway jacket and trousers – you know, help out a brother stuff……. ( haha)

So after profuse “thank you’s” it’s off to Lochinver, a mere six and a bit miles away. I found the garage all right, but no one at home….

I’d been told that Mr MacAskill (David) might be found at the local RNLI office (he has some sort of connection there)  and this turned out to be spot on. His son Lachie present as well. You see local knowledge on people’s activities often comes in handy…….

So back to the garage with Lachie, to find they haven’t got my tyre size in stock. More phone calls…..Yes they could get me a “budget” one by 12 noon tomorrow, assuming one was available – more waiting for confirmation….

 So that was it for the day really, not much I could do until tomorrow.

Had a good walk around following the consumption of a sausage/egg sarnie and a sausage roll fro Flossie’s Beach Store (next to the campsite). Although a bit dull and overcast, the beach at Clachtoll is still worth a walk and very calming for the nerves – what a morning !!!!!

The rest of the afternoon ? I went to sleep for a couple of hours – such decadence….

Day: 18, Date: 19 May 2023, Falls of Kirkaig

 Look – the sun ! And it’s only seven o’clock…

The last time I was here in 2020 I tried to find a place called The Falls Of Kirkaig, following a recommendation from a fellow camper.

So, having to wait until 12 noon plus for a text confirmation of my new tyre’s arrival, I decided to explore locally and eventually found the small road turn off out of Lochinver that I’d missed before.  From the car park it claimed to be 2 ½ miles to the Falls.  I often use the very excellent Walkhighlands website for detailed routes to get to remote places, so yes they had one for this walk.

Very rocky in parts, the notice said it all and they weren’t kidding. Definitely not flip-flop territory…..

The whole valley had the feel of a prehistoric  forest _ I was waiting for the dinosaurs to appear any moment !

So eventually, I managed to get this old, overweight, unfit, badly balanced (it’s the hearing issues you know) lump of a body up the path to the Falls. Very much worth it !

I didn’t go to the complete edge of the ravine as I didn’t fancy spending time in the local casualty department. Non the less, extremely pretty location. Plenty of water flowing as well, so the fall itself was pretty impressive.

Beautiful, I could have stayed there for hours……

Reluctantly,I walked back to the carpark.  On the way back down I had the text I’d been waiting for (at 1242), to say the tyre had arrived and the fitted up wheel awaited my collection – yipeeeee !

I had to laugh a bit when I paid up (in cash naturally….) as the receipt they gave me just said “TOURIST” in the “To” slot – sums it up really ….. To be fair, they did rescue me, for which I was truly grateful.

So re-tyred wheel collected (!) and re-fitted, it was time to start to stop, ready for my next bit of adventure.

This is my 3 person “small “ tent btw, a Vango Omega 350. Used a lot more times than I imagined on this trip. FYI, my main tent is a Zempire EVO TM V2, all air beams and stuff.

Next day was ( hopefully) planned to be one of the highlights of the whole trip, so early to bed. Need to be fully rested, I can tell you that much !

And I STILL didn’t get a pie from the “world famous” Lochinver Larder – next time…… You can order pies by post, but last time I looked it was a minimum of 10 pies per shipment – I’m not that greedy…….

Day: 19, Date: 20 May 2023, Sandwood Bay

Today promises to be one of the highlights/challenges of my complete trip – walking to Sandwood Bay. Claimed by some as “perhaps the most beautiful beach in Britain” it starts off as a bleak moorland trek, but you are rewarded (eventually !) with fabulous views of the bay as you crest the last hilly bit on what is a well-worn trail.

 A very early start then to pack up the kit and drive the 46 miles to the car park just outside the village of Blairmore. When I initially woke up, I was greeted by the sight of a complete row of VW Campers ( a “squadron” perhaps ? ). Quite amazing that there could be so many variations on the same theme ……

After a breakfast food and fuel stop in Lochinver, it was on the road north. Still plenty of great views, despite the weather being a bit dull and overcast – but no rain ! Ideal walking weather…….

The first mile or so is wide and very well surfaced. There used to be vehicular access for part of the walk, but that no longer exists. It deteriorates after what is now a cycle “car park” as it gets a bit rocky and narrow, especially round the edges of the lochs.

Eventually, you crest a hill and get the first glimpse of the bay, with Cape Wrath in the distance. Looks fantastic – onward. After that it’s a trek across the dunes down to the beach itself. Yes ! This is the first REAL view you get of the bay

Day: 20, Date: 21 May 2023, On to Applecross

Here as promised are the pix of where I stayed last night, The Old School Restaurant and Rooms at Inchegra – to give it it’s proper name…

 Just look at that blue sky !

The main purpose of this seemingly longer inland route was to approach Glen Docherty from the south-east, to get the renowned classic view to the north-west towards Kinlochewe and Loch Maree.  I also wanted to scout out a couple of campsites for future consideration.

Day: 21, Date: 22 May 2023, Applecross “Rest day” 1

Tried to walk up to the Heritage Centre, but unfortunately, was told it was closed for renovation. A walk round the village revealed some interesting photo’s at the community petrol station. Mainly of the Bealach na Ba Pass  from “olden days”. At one stage the only way into Applecross was via the pass, until they built the longer “northern” coast road round the top of the peninsular. So driving a removal van up there must’ve been a load of fun ! Car enthusiasts can never resist a hillclimb…….

After lunch, had a bit of a drive to the south of Applecross. It really is getting a bit at the end of the world-ish with villages/hamlets like Aird-Dhubh (Ard-Dhubh), Camustiel, Camusterrach and Toscaig. Along the way I saw quite a few small holdings with animals. There is a shop at Toscaig  and a pier – that’s it ! Apparently, Toscaig once had a ferry service, linking to the Kyle of Lochhalsh which was the only route into Applecross when the road over the Bealach na Bà was closed. Now there is the road going north.

Day: 23, Date: 24 May 2023, To the Isle of Skye……

Well, a relatively short 78 miles drive to my next campsite at Portree on the Isle of Skye, so  a reasonably relaxed start to the day. Woke up at 0630, by 0730 it was p***ing down – great !

One thing I’d learnt from Applecross was the need for a personal midge net.  A visit to the very helpful outdoor shop (called Inside Out – groan !) solved that issue. Not exactly the latest fashion garment, but (as it turned out) pretty damned effective. It even has a NATO stock number. The locals agree that the midges were earlier this year, so it became mandatory wear first and last thing during the day at the campsite.

One specific target was the iconic Old Man of Storr, more of a challenge than a target I think ! From last visit, I saw the carpark filled up PDQ, so got up early, big breakfast, in the car park by 0800. Even from the car park it looked very forbidding….. According to my ever-reliable Walkhighlands route information, it should take 1 ½ to 2 hours there and back to the main viewing place, but a lot of it is semi-vertical. We shall see…….

So, ankle straps on, best boots, both walking sticks deployed, off we go ! All reasonably easy to start with, a well established gravel path, some level, some at a bit of an incline. However after about 30 minutes it suddenly gets a bit more rough, rocky and vertical.  The path has been well repaired but using large stones/boulders and often big vertical steps/stairs – bit of a challenge for us oldies ! Good balance is NOT one of my specialities due to all my ear nonsense…..

Part way up I met an American (54) with his two sons. We kept company on and off until we reached the main viewing place.  Even at this time of the day it was quite busy. Met at least two couples who had walked up very, very early to catch the dawn – that’s dedication ! Mind you, it would have been a terrific sight ! Forever upwards……

 

After a bit of a rest (plus restorative coffee), it was once again onto the A855 to go north. I’d already “done” the waterfalls  and Kilt Rock last time, so pressed on. Next was a recce of the Staffin Campsite. For future reference. Verdict ? Small/compact – but full !!! Another one for the future.

Onward…

There are some spectacular views along this road, eg Staffin Bay, but after Staffin, the road reverts to single track with passing spaces, as it gets very rural towards the top of the Trotternish peninsular.  Very “out of the way”.

 

My next stop was the Skye Museum of Island Life. It’s a preserved village of thatched cottages, giving a glimpse of what life used to be like in the nearby village of Kilmuirand it’s surroundings at the close of the 19^th century. There’s a croft kitchen, a typical bedroom, a barn, a smithy and a weavers cottage, amongst others.  Very interesting. Life was hard in those days.

Note the date on the picture below – house still occupied in the 1930 !

After that, the road turns south  and ends up at Uig. Uig is one of the major jumping off points for the Outer Hebrides, with ferry sailings to Lochmaddy and Tarbert. The port area was in turmoil as there is a major re-development going on, trying to cram as much work in as possible before the Summer holiday season, it seems.

Being a “major” port in the area, it meant that the road back to Portree was two track and pretty much well maintained, so a dash back to town. By now the weather was a lot better, so a walk round town and the harbour was in order – plus the obligatory stop at the wee ice cream shop, of course…..

So a pretty hectic/busy day that completes one of the  main road “loops” around the island.  I treated myself to a bag of chips from Sea Breezes down on the harbour front, before collapsing into my chair back at camp.

 

Day: 25, Date: 26 May 2023, Isle of Skye Day 2

The castle is still used by the clan, but only really Christmas and similar times. Nice place to spend a weekend.  Royalty has stayed there, including the then Queen in 1933.  They’ve also collected artifacts in connection with Flora MacDonald – Bonny Prince Charlie and all that….

The siting of the castle is also pretty spectacular, being at the head of a loch. I guess it was also strategically placed as well.

The gardens are pretty spectacular as well. Various themes (including a Japanese water garden) together with a walled garden, a more formal garden (to enable the ladies to “walk out” in their finery) and a large greenhouse. The walled garden is obviously still very much in use for both plants and vege’s for the castle.

Day: 26, Date: 27 May 2023, Isle of Skye, Day 3

Day: 27/28, Date: 28/29 May 2023, Homeward bound…..

Except for a diversion to use the Glenelg Ferry across the Kylerhea Straights, instead of using the Skye Bridge/A87, because it’s the LAST turntable operated ferry IN THE WORLD still working on a commercial basis. It’s the oldest ferry to the Isle of Skye, well before the one at Kyle of Lochalsh came into being.

Mind you, the road down to the ferry could be classified at least as unclassified, twisty, narrow, steep and not very well finished. Took it steady and ended up being first in the queue for the 10 o’clock ferry – plan working so far…… Not exactly extravagant port infrastructure, but that is the whole point !  A turntable ferry can operate using the very minimum of slipway in ALL states of the tide.  Very clever design. The only obvious problem is that they are not exactly huge, but in their heyday the low levels of traffic were easily catered for.

I was joined by a whole host of Dutch motor cyclists, who had some pretty impressive machinery – engineers can’t leave it alone can they ??????? Had to have a good look and a chat….. Spot on 1000 the ferry left the opposite bank to disgorge its load and we then all clambered aboard.

Then the turntable was manually rotated to point the right way for disembarking. I don’t apologise for the various video’s below – I was fascinated !

Across the other side, the turntable lined up again. I let the bikes go first ……