Another day, another day of sunshine and sunshine………
Adventure time today included a trip on a French bus – never been attempted before. Luckily, the terminus was just up the road from the hotel at the local shopping centre, so I waited until the “rush hour’ was over and ventured forth. By the use of my rudimentary French and the driver’s small amount of English we somehow acquired a ticket into the city centre. Bit of a slow journey, as the Centre of Caen was in mega-upheaval, as they were completely revamping the tram system.
For the technically minded, the existing system is provided by three-section articulated vehicles, guided by a central non-supporting rail powered by electricity drawn from an overhead wire through a pantograph. Apparently, its been very unreliable, to such an extent that the whole system is being converted to light rail, ie TWO tracks in the street. You can just imagine the building mess that creates in a city centre…..
Like a well-trained Lusted offspring, I made for the Tourist Office. As I had only given myself a day, I though the best option was a walk around. Naturally enough, there was a leaflet all ready sorted for us stupid tourists, with 2 options, a “short” route (allegedly taking only 1.5 hours) and a “long” routes (ditto 3.5 hours). As it was such a beautiful, hot sunny day, I decided (you guessed it) that it was the “long” route for me – quelle décision stupide !!!! Supposed to take 3 1/2 hours but I took nearly 6, as I kept stopping to actually go into some of the places en route. Altogether I walked around 17 km in total.
Caen is now a strange mixture of ancient, modern and re-built. The city got a real pasting during WW2, so it varies between typical French narrow streets in the old/surviving parts to big open squares in the re-built bits. Lots of references to William the Conqueror throughout.
Herewith a few highlights:
Could this be anywhere else but France ? I can hear the accordion playing now. Just waiting for Inspector Maigret to turn up in his trusty Citroën Traction Avant………
The Chateau is a vast castle 5 hectare/ 12 acre complex built on a promontory and protected by 13 towers and a bloody great moat ! Good views of the city though. Inside there are two or three museums. To be visited on another trip, perhaps. One of the former chapels has been turned into a presentation hall. Naturally enough for this year (WW1 centenary and all that), the exhibits and displays were focussing on the First World War, from a French perspective.
Then it was off to on of the older parts of the city, complete with typical French tall city houses ( complete with courtyards), churches and eating streets ( plenty of those in Caen !).
The tour then went to the Abbaye-aux-Dames. This was founded by Mathilde (wife of William the Conqueror) in the 18th century “to provide greater comfort and security for the community”. It’s now been fully restored and has become the offices for the Normandy Regional Council. Gardens all traditionally laid out as well, Very pleasant place to stop for 5 minutes rest.
Now it was down the hill, to a newer part of the city, by the marina and the River Orne. This part was completely demolished during WW2, but the marina reminds one that Caen is actually not too far from the sea. Most of the buildings in this part of the city are of early 50’s vintage.
After viewing a few more statues plus some Haussmann inspired buildings, an oasis of calm appeared in the form of the racecourse. – trees and shade ! A much-needed sit down. It says in the tour guide that it is a “huge green lung for the city”. Spot on.
By now lunchtime beckoned, so what could be better than lunch in the Place de la Republique on a sunny Friday in Caen. View from my seat. The young waitress had to dash back and forth across a busy road with food and drink. Seems like a good way to keep fit…. The couple sitting at the table in the left hand picture provided me with a high volume, fast, background French language commentary – it was a wonder they had time to actually eat !
Suitably refreshed – it was onwards into the more pedestrianised part of the city centre, complete with a beautiful wooden framed house and the French poet Malherbe’s residence as well.
Beginning to flag a bit now…….. Next it was the Abbaye-aux-Hommes ( see the female version above) which has now been converted into the Caen Town Hall. Will the Conq’s tomb is in the abbey church. I must admit I left a bit of the route out here and went straight to the Jardin de Plantes – feet were getting somewhat sore……. very peaceful and calm, just what was needed.
Happily exhausted, it was back to the bus followed by a LOOOOOONG bath at the hotel. A fantastic day though, well worth it, but I could have done with the temperature being a bit lower.