Another one of my “must do” targets starts today. I’ve heard so much about the Route Napoleon in the Alpes Maritime. It’s the route used by Napoleon Bonaparte during his march from the island Elba to Grenoble in 1815. He apparently landed at Golf-Juan port and then proceeded to Grasse (famous for its perfume expertise), Castellane, Digne, Sisteron, Gap, ending up in Grenoble. To be honest, I was not so much interested in the historical connection, but wanted to enjoy the road and where it went – one of those”ultimate drives”.
It’s also a very popular route for “bikies” due to the flowing nature of the route. I have to say that the complete population of Frence bikies must’ve been out, since it was a public holiday – they were everywhere.
So after a quick early morning tent pack up, it was a bit of a drag along the coast road first. Here’s where it starts on the south coast in Golf-Juan – not my picture, stolen from the net.
The Route doesn’t really get started until after Grasse. All along it there were signs, maps, memorials, eagle statues and other references to Napoleon (eg Hotel de Napoleon) including the ones below, taken at a stopping/viewing point high above Grasse. Yet again a really hot day, so plenty of heat haze, even early in the morning.
The road certainly lived up to its reputation, well surfaced and contoured, a pleasure to drive.
However, in a recurring theme on this holiday, I got diverted…..Having vowed to myself that I wouldn’t “do” any more gorges, I did the opposite and went off the Route to The Grand Canyon du Verdon. I’m glad I did, it was spectacular ! Lots of walking routes, it seems, which must be quite something. I stopped by the river on the way and it was flowing mega-fast into the Canyon.
Here’s a few of the canyon from the point-de-vu at the top
Then it was onwards and upwards…..
My destination for the night was a hotel in the small town of Espinasses, some kilometres to the east of Gap. Somewhere in Digne, my TomTom decided to take me on the scenic route OVER the mountains, rather than AROUND same. This is one obvious problem with solo piloting in that you sometimes become dependent of the magic electrical box, especially towards the end of the day.
However, once I’d realised what was going on, a quick consultation with a real paper map showed that the route would be using more minor roads, so crack on !
What a good decision to make, as I encountered some of the most magnificent scenery I’ve ever seen in France. Obviously very alpine in nature, with severely pitched roofs and enormous winter wood stores – very pretty now but probably a bugger in the winter….. And the high-ish passes to go with it.
One particular place that I liked that I went through was called Seyne – beautiful houses in a beautiful spot. Very narrow through the town. In fact, I was so impressed, that I doubled back to take the pix.
After that, it was the drop down into Espinasses. Now when I say “drop down”, I’m talking about a single track steep sinuous road beside a small tributary of the Durance, just a two foot concrete wall separating you from certain death – but only in some places. If anybody wants to know it’s the D900C from Selonnet to Espinasses. I don’t scare too easily on these small mountain roads, but even I was getting a bit nervous, mainly because it was so narrow for two way traffic…… Glad to get to the bottom !
I was quite happy to see that sign !!!!! MY bed for the night was at the Hotel de la Poste, empty except for a couple of older French cyclists and myself.
As I said in my Booking.com review:
“Workman-like hotel in the middle of no-where off the beaten track, next to the Durance river in the Hautes-Alpes department of France. Breath-taking scenery. Very quiet hotel – only 3 of us in residence mid week, obviously the season here has not started yet ! Despite an initial language communication problem, very friendly staff. Reasonable restaraunt, with well presented good food.”
Had a bit of a walk before dinner (beautiful clear mountain air….) – needed to calm down a bit after that hair-raising ride down the mountains…….
Espinasses is a bit of a “one horse town” with just the hotel and a few shops. It’s positioned next to the Durance river, complete with major sluice gates controlling the release of water downstream from Lac de Serre-Poncon, to hydroelectric plants downstream. They’re into hydro generation bigly in this part of the world.
Sunset against the mountains was pretty spectacular, my pic doesn’t do it justice.
More Napoleon tomorrow….