So a new day dawned…..
After a truly GINORMOUS Scottish cooked breakfast, it was on the road, this time taking the much smaller ferry back to the mainland at the northern end of the island, from Rhubodach to Colintraive.
A much more “relaxed” affair, with traditional concrete ramps and just a lovely lady (can I say that nowadays ????) taking the money, using what looks like an old fashioned bus ticket machine, but Bluetooth enabled and connected to the internet. Ten minutes later, back on dry land and northward bound.
One of my holiday objectives was to go to the legendary now disused Rest-and-be-Thankful hillclimb course. Its actually part of an old military road, build in the 1700’s.
Before that though, I diverted off the northbound A815 on to the B839 and to a small village called Lochgoilhead. My first taste of Scotland’s narrow single track roads with passing places – concentration required. Thankfully quiet in September, but must be a major headache in the summer tourist months ! It purported to have a campsite, which actually turned out to be more lodges than anything else. Anyway, very pretty. Shame the tide was out.
So back on the B828 and a steep single track climb up to the Rest and Be Thankful summit car park.
Some background. The A83 is an important major strategic road between Tarbet and Inveraray through Glen Croe, joining up Loch Long via Loch Fyne to Lock Awe. If closed for any reason, it’s a 60 mile detour. Recently, it’s been subject to landslides because of bad weather including torrential prolonged rain. Indeed, just before my trip it was closed for quite a while, whilst the contractors removed 2000 tonnes + of soil, added concrete reinforcements and other civil type structures to make it at least one way with controlling traffic lights.
The Rest and Be Thankful is quite literally named as a place where travellers in olden times would stop, “rest and be thankful” that they had reached the top of the steep climb, before continuing on to their west coast destination. Before the current “new” road was opened, a military road was built up the Glen, going over the col at the top at the Rest and be Thankful summit site. Lots more detail in the link above.
My interest was the use of the old military road after the Second World War as a testing hill climb for racing and sports cars, up until 1970. Most of the road is still available. Indeed when the “new” road has had to closed, it is used as a bypass around any landslide damage, using a one way convoy system – OK for most traffic, but I guess “entertaining” for larger vehicles……. see pictures. I had hoped that I might’ve taken a sneaky unofficial run up the hill, but there was too much on-going activity, due to rectification work on the main road.
So anyway, enough of this self indulgent clap-trap…….Hey, it’s my holiday, I can do whatever takes my fancy. Having competed many years ago in speed hillclimbs, it was a bit of a pilgrimage, if you like. Must’ve been AWSOME in something really fast. There’s many videos on YouTube, but here’s a couple of samples.
My next stop was Oban (for lunch !), on the way north to Fort William.
Just outside Oban I came across a strange natural phenomenon called the Falls of Lora. Where the deep tidal Loch Etive empties out into the Firth of Lorn, there is a restriction which causes white water disturbance. Much loved by canoeists, apparently.
So on to Oban. I’ve been before many years ago, but not looked around the place at all. Very windy. It acts as one of the main ferry places for the outer Hebridean islands, so the very busy North Pier at the harbour is a focus. Town is also known as the “The Gateway to the Isles”.
I went for a walk along the promenade northwards, past the cathedral towards the lighthouse close to Dunollie Castle – closed of course ! Many B + B’s along the way, mostly ( astonishingly) displaying full signs.
After an hour or so, it was on the road again, north to Fort William and my first camping overnight stay – via Morrison’s for a fresh food stockup. Campsite was the Glen Nevis Caravan and Campsite, a big site, with loads of touring caravan, static caravans, bar, restaurant, etc. Found myself a spot with a view of the Ben Nevis “foothills” – nice !
A long and very full day, so just put up the main tent with a promise to sort the rest out tomorrow – theoretically a rest/chillout day !!!!!! Oh yes, a bottle was opened……….
Four nights planned for Fort William with local sightseeing and a steam train………