NORTH COAST 500 + OTHER STUFF – Monday 21 September 2020 – Day 15 – To Talmine

Surf’s up this morning in Dunnet Bay….

So now we move further along the north coast and the scenery becomes more “rugged” and I get re-introduced to my favourites roads – single track with passing places…..A relatively short run, but with lots of interest along the way. My target is Talmine, a small “township” in the middle of nowhere, just off the main A838 road, where I have a 2 day AirBnB stay.

Onward…..

First stop was the Tesco in Thurso, to re-stock on fresh food and (more importantly) petrol. Thurso is the most northerly town on the British mainland, apparently. Had a bit of a walk round, all very tough, strong looking houses and excellent public toilets !!!!

The nearby port of Scrabster provides ferry services to the Orkney Islands. It’s a typical ferry terminal port with not only fishing boats, but also loads of petrol/diesel storage tanks, small cargo vessel berths, etc. The main A9 trunk road (which connects Thurso to Inverness, Perth and the rest of Scotland) ends at the ferry terminal.  All this useful information……..

Further along the road, I came across the Dounreay nuclear establishment sites. They were the first serious nuclear places in the UK, having been built in the 1950’s.  What I hadn’t appreciated was that one site was used for the development and testing of reactors, etc, for the UK’s nuclear submarine fleet, as well as the other site’s better known concentration on the civil use of nuclear power. Big site, certainly a remote location. Visitor centre closed, unfortunately.

Then it was “dive off the main road” time again. This time to a great little place called Sandside Bay.  Coincided with lunchtime, so I parked up to watch the surfers, then off along the clifftop for the scenic bit. Wild and woolly today, so rewarded by some pretty spectacular sea action.

Another ex-fishing village called Armadale  came up next, complete with old rigs for net drying, etc. Not many people live here, now that the fishing has finished.

Just to give you an idea, the pic below (on the left) is typical of the main A road between Thurso and Tongue. It’s actually quite good in this place in that it isn’t single track! Outside of the villages, you wouldn’t want to breakdown in this semi-wilderness.  The track in the other picture went off to some settlement somewhere in the wilds……..

Now the scenery is REALLY started to get a bit dramatic. This is the view above Kirtomy village and bay.

Farr Bay came up next. After a refreshing takeaway cuppa at the local cafe, it was time for a bit of a stroll – too much time sitting in the car. Yet another astonishingly beautiful bay. The two characters in the photo’s are two ladies who were so engrossed with their conversation that they ended up a bit wet from the incoming tide……..

As you can see, I rather like this sort of thing – geography teacher’s son, you see……..

This pic I like ‘cos of the clouds, etc. I think it’s quite good, myself. Those two old ladies again…….

On to Bettyhill, almost a city (relatively speaking) in these parts. There’s a fantastic general store which is like the food/grocery equivalent of the Two Ronnies sketch ironmonger. Very dark, mysterious and old fashioned, but sells everything. Do good stuffed baps as well……..

Just up the road is the Bettyhill Hotel, which must have the most wonderful views of anywhere – this – Torrisdale Bay……..

I nearly missed the view, as I was concentrating on the single track road. Just saw it as a quick glance over my right shoulder, as I was going down the hill out out of Bettyhill. Turned round and went back up to the hotel to take the pix. Stunning.

Then through Tongue, across the very impressive Kyle of Tongue/causeway, then a right turn towards Melness and Talmine.

This was my bed for a couple of nights, an AirBnB called The Wee Housie.  Jenny and Andy converted their redundant stone garage into a small flat, courtesy of their builder/carpenter son and other siblings, as a retirement present ( think I got that right ????). Very nice too. Warm and dry……….

And so to bed……. eventually. Another day of glorious sights and stunning scenery on the north coast.

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