NORTH COAST 500 + OTHER STUFF – Saturday 19 September 2020 – Day 13 – To the end of the world – and beyond

BRILLIANT SUNNY DAY FROM START TO FINISH, so there.

Today, it’s “ be a tourist” time. My REAL target was a campsite at Dunnet Bay, but I guess I had to “do” JOG, sorry John O’Groats. I have to say I was completely underwhelmed by JOG. Most of the touristy shops were shut and the toilets were charging 50p ! All  a bit commercial for my liking. Plenty of the obligatory cyclists and bikers making it  there. I have to say that despite travel restictions and everything else COVID, the car park was full.

There was, thankfully, a small mobile coffee place, that did a mean coffee cheesecake. Very welcome.

No, I didn’t have my picture taken by the famous post. There is a harbour there and a decent coastal walk to the PROPER “most north-easterly part of Britain’s main land”, at the lighthouse at  Duncansby Head. I chickened out and drove there – still in recovery mode.

The most spectacular feature is not the lighthouse itself though but the nearby great Stacks of Duncansby and the Geo of Sclaites. Mostly a cliff top walk south of the lighthouse and well worth the effort. Both impressive geological features.

The Stacks are spectacular, especially when the light is right, nearer the end of the day.

From one “most” point on the mainland to another – the most northerly point, which is at Dunnet Head. On the way, I passed the ferry port at Gills Bay for the Orkney Isles and spotted seals enjoying the sun. Look at that blue sky – still.

Dunnet Head is windy.

It’s approached from the main A836 Wick to Thurso road by a single track road, the B855,  which claims to be the most northerly road on mainland Britain. No argument from me.

Apart from the lighthouse (which looks out over the end of the Pentland Firth and its shipping lanes) there were minor fortifications built during World War 2, which helped to protect the naval base at Scapa Flow.  According to the site signs there was also a radar station and a bunker used by the Royal Observer Corps during the so called Cold War. There’s still some of the physical infrastructure in place. Nice on days like today, but a ****ing bleak posting in the winter.

Whilst I was there, the local postie delivered to one of the few houses on site. Is this the most northerly postal round on the British mainland ?? I think we should be told……..

I had hoped to go to Castle of Mey on the way, but it was closed – quelle surprise. This is the old Queen Mum’s house, a grand location for sure. Very isolated and therefore pretty secure.

So onward to my next camping stop at Dunnet Bay itself, at the site run by the Caravan and Motorhome Club. I’d been a bit worried about this one, as they only had two specific tent camping pitches and it wasn’t all that clear (to me at least) that my re-arranged reservation was still OK. My fears were ill founded and all was well. After a long day I certainly didn’t want any hassle. Electric hookup – bliss, proper lights……..

One good thing is that the tent pitches had a great view of the bay (in front of all the caravans !), a bit murky in the  early evening glow, but looked encouragingly spectacular  to me.

Had a quick walk along the beach, really just to unwind a bit, plenty to explore tomorrow…..

The guy in the tent next to me was a bit of a photography nerd and was trying to catch the sunset with a drone mounted iphone – top left hand corner, just out of the picture, unfortunately. Didn’t see the results, but a stunning sunset to end a day of stunning blue skyies, at the top of the mainland. Dunnet Bay in all its glory.

Off to bed, been a long but enjoyable day. “Rest” day tomorrow.

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