What a great way to start a day – 0730 AM. I had a feeling that I was going to get blown away with the scenery today – and I wasn’t disappointed. Here’s a last look at Talmine from my AirBnB front door. Couldn’t resist with the sunny weather around. Beautiful.
See what I mean ? Still travelling essentially east to west , but that will soon change. Photo’s below don’t do it justice. Apologies for bits of car showing, but not often many opportunities to stop on these single track roads. You just have to briefly “stop and shoot”.
Next stop was unashamedly “touristy” – Smoo Caves near Durness. Big sea cave. The tours of the cave(s) were not running, but still worth wandering around. There was also a good clifftop walk to blow away any brain cobwebs. A bonus rainbow too !
Then off south from Durness towards Ullapool. I don’t apologise for more beautiful scenery pix. Breathtaking.
Just north of Rhiconich I turned off the main road with the intention of checking out the route to Sandwood bay, for another day. Although only a B road, it was suspiciously good, eg twin track. I soon found out why. The village of Kinlochbervie is the most northerly port on the west coast and includes a HUGE fish processing plant. Lorries from all over Europe were backed up ready to load.
The car park for Sandwood Bay is just beyond Blairmore, down a very, very narrow unclassified road. It was stupidly rammed, overflowing with cars and camper vans backed up for 500m each side, on the verges, etc. A right mess. Moral of this story is that when I come next time, I need to be parked up very early in the morning ! Worth finding out though.
Going back to the main road, I stopped at The Old Schoolhouse at Inshegra, just outside Kinlochbervie for coffee and a bacon bap. Only open for takeaway when I went, so had to sit outside – not a bad view though…..
Further down the A894, I took a side road to do a detour circuit which included the picturesque coastal villages of Foindle, Farragmore and Tarbet. Very pretty, but narrow roads.
Back on that lovely two track road ( upgraded, I guess, to support the fishing industry) there were more scenic views, including the smart looking curved “new” bridge at Kylesku. Opened by the Queen not so long ago (1984) it replaced a ferry across the loch.
What got me about this section of the journey was that you can just come around a corner of the road and there’s views like THIS in front of you. Round another corner and there’s more of the same……..
This is the Assynt. “The Assynt is known for its landscape and its remarkable mountains, which have led to the area, along with neighbouring Coigach, being designated as the Assynt-Coigach National Scenic Area,one of 40 such areas in Scotland.” WOW, just WOW !!!!!
Just after Unapool, I turned off the main road onto the B869, which would take me through Drumbeg and then eventually to Clachtoll. A stop at the solitary Drumbeg shop was recommended for lunchtime supplies by a travel website I’ve been following. They had beautiful ice cream tubs made from Orkney milk – delicious, a real treat.
Onwards….. this road is a real switchback in both horizontal and vertical planes – have a look at an AA Road atlas and you’ll see what I mean, almost dizzy making.
Eventually I reached Clachtoll and the Clachtoll Beach Campsite, funnily enough located next to the beach….. Run by two guys (Andy and Tony) they’d found me a great sheltered spot. Internet connection was a bit rubbish, but who cares……….
Tent set up, stomach fed, then it was time to watch the sunset. Can’t resist a beautiful sunset.
What a stupendously scenic day – rest day tomorrow