Today started as one of those messy showery type of days, which included my favourite camping activity (NOT…) – packing a wet tent ! Whatever.
Today it’s en route to the mega-metropolis of Ullapool, one of the few big villages/towns on the west coast – and yet another ferry terminal, this time to Stornoway in the Western Isles.
Fish and sea trade played an important role in the development of Ullapool. In the late 1700’s the British Fisheries Society commissioned Thomas Telford to design a village and port for what had become important herring fisheries. Some of the original buildings still exist.
After an inevitable quick food trip to Tesco’s, I had a wander round – the rain had stopped, sun was out-ish. There’s a lot of good layout (typical engineer, all laid out in nice square blocks) and landscaping done to make it all rather attractive, perched on flat land above the harbour. Lots of sturdy stone buildings that reflect the weather, I guess.
Next up came the Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve with associated water falls, etc
A mile-long canyon, Corrieshalloch is reputed to be one of the most spectacular gorges of its type in Britain and provides evidence of how glacial meltwater can create deep gorges. A short steep walk brings you to a rather wobbly Victorian suspension bridge ( 6 persons at a time please), where you can gaze down over a series of waterfalls. Certainly pretty spectacular – even in the showery rain.
Needless to say that the fantastic scenery continued (almost boringly really …..) included the nice roadside part of the waterfalls at Ardessie.
Showers had stopped, leaving a brilliant blue sky.
A quick halt at Gruinard Bay for a leg stretch. Another good looking bay – how many more are there ?????? As you can see from the sea, the wind was getting up, so my walk could be described as “fresh” or “bracing”.
Then there was Loch Ewe. First of all, it’s big and deep and almost land locked, ie easier to defend.
Secondly, it’s famous. During World War II, the loch became a naval port of significant strategic importance to Britain, and served as one of the main assembly points for many of the Atlantic convoys bound for North America and West Africa, together with those destined for Murmansk, Arctic Russia, on the Arctic Run. It was also the entry point for many British submarines making their way into the Atlantic Ocean.
Currently, there’s a NATO POL (petroleum, oil, lubricants) depot there. Just up the road is the Russian Arctic Convoy Museum, which I hope to visit tomorrow.
So on to my stop for the next two nights (indeed my last two nights under “canvas” on this trip) at the Sands Campsite, just outside Gairloch itself. It’s a big site, with static caravans, wigwams, etc. The tent area is “hidden” in the sand dunes, but within a few meters of the beach. Bit windy now, so windbreak and strategically placed car required.
Off to bed…..Another great day of super scenery.